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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.